My criteria when determining my top advent calendars of this year are:

1. It has to be FRENCH. Sorry Belgium, your chocolate is great, but I’m only looking for truly French products.
2. Quality of goodies. Each surprise behind the numbered doors needs to rise above an everyday treat.
3. Cuteness Factor. If I’m going to display this in my home for a month, I want it to be beautiful.

Introducing my top French advent calendars of the 2019 holidays.

Angelina

With such a beautiful design inside and out, Angelina’s 2019 advent calendar easily became my favorite choice. Angelina has been crafting chocolates in Paris since 1903. This calendar displays scenes outside Angelina’s tea room on Rue de Rivoli and will have you feeling like you’re spending Christmas in Paris no matter where you live. 29,95€

Available in store and online in November, available now on lagrandeepicerie.com.

Mazet Confiseur

Simple and sweet. I love this year’s Mazet Confiseur design by Marina Vandel, who started her career drawing animals for the Museum of Natural History in Paris. For 2019, the calendar is entirely filled with chocolate treats, nuts and nougat. 22,40€

Mariage Frères

This is the first advent calendar from well-loved French tea company Mariage Frères. The Noël Sublime calendar is also special because Mariage Frères does not sell mixed boxes of teas, so this is a great way to sample 25 different flavors from their collection. 39€

Not yet available at time of publishing, the release will be announced on the Mariage Frères Instagram account.

Diptyque Paris

This luxury beauty calendar is no doubt a splurge, but it is gorgeous one. The 2019 theme is a colorful take on lucky charms from around the world and includes mini candles, personal fragrances, body care products and one full-sized holiday candle. Available at the end of October. 350€

Pierre Hermé

My favorite macaron shop has created this chic take on a holiday wreath, pulling from forest inspiration for its fourth edition. Last year this advent calendar sold out very quickly, so if you love it, buy it ASAP! 62€

Maison Brémond 1830

This is the advent calendar for the chef in your life! Maison Brémond 1830 produces some of the best olive oils, spreads and sauces in France and this calendar ensures a December full of deliciousness. Stocked with mini versions of their oils, balsamics, tapenades, seasonings, candies and more. 40€

À la Mère de Famille

Founded in 1761, À la Mère de Famille is the oldest chocolatier in Paris and maintains a stellar reputation. This year, for the seventh edition of its advent calendar, the maison went for a little more modern design, tapping the artist Zeina Abirached. 39€

Oh My Cream!

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Oh My Cream! carries top products and is a favorite of Parisiennes in the know. The advent calendar contains 25 mini and full-sized of house products as well as brands such as Tata Harper and Ren Skincare. If last year is any indication, it will go fast, so buy now if you love it. 130€

Bonne Maman

Bring a little warmth to cold December mornings with this sweet advent calendar. Every French person knows Bonne Maman’s jams, marmalades, compotes, and cookies, and this box lets you try 24 different treats. 29,90€

Available on the Bonne Maman website and lagrandeepicerie.com.

What advent calendar are you buying for your home this year? Leave a comment and share your favorite with me!

*2019 Diptyque Carousel Information*

The carrousel should be available online and in shops at the very end of October or beginning of November. The 2017 release date was November 2nd; in 2018 it was October 31st. I’ll be stalking the stores just like every other year, so see you at Diptyque!

Original post below.  

Since 2016, the chic Parisian candle and fragrance brand Diptyque has released a unique holiday candle carrousel each year — and I am lucky to have all three. Rarely has a decorative item made me so happy.

I don’t normally write about products or shopping, but I had to share this because it is one my favorite French items. The gold carousels fit atop the small (and in 2018 also the medium-sized) Diptyque candles and when the candle is lit, the carousel rotates and reflects light (video here). The first year Diptyque produced this candle carousel, it was a whimsical duck theme. I saw it in a magazine and fell in love, but sadly after calling multiple New York locations I was told it sold out worldwide within days of being released. Still my husband knew it was my dream Christmas gift.

In a holiday miracle, my husband went to the Nolita store in NYC and was able to procure the floor model carousel from a dream-fulfilling employee, who gave it to my husband for free (they aren’t allowed to sell floor models). My husband has a French charm that translates well in English apparently. I couldn’t believe my eyes when the duck carrousel was under the Christmas tree for me, and have been obsessed with it since.

In the years since, I have planned ahead. Now that we live in Paris, each October I’ve gone to speak to employees at the flagship shop to get the release date information. And in 2017 and 2018 I was the very first person to purchase the carrousel at the Marais Diptyque store. (FYI: The 2017 release date was November 2nd; in 2018 it was October 31st.) The price is for the medium was 50€ last year, and for the small you had to buy a set with two candles totaling around 110€. I bought the medium to have something new. Astrology-themed, the 2017 carrousel was a collaboration with artist Philippe Baudelocque and feels more Christmasy to me than the premier edition. I will always have a soft spot for my original duck carrousel, but I use this one more for the holidays. The 2018 design was “Légende du Nord” and the work of illustrator Pierre Marie. The carrousel features three spirit characters that have been invented by Diptyque, as well as two compass medallions. The Diptyque carrousel is a limited edition item and always sells out quickly. There are usually a few available on ebay, but expect a hefty markup. I plan on making this a new Christmas tradition and can’t wait until my apartment has a carousel for every room. Hopefully my husband isn’t already regretting that he started this addiction!

In our modern times, picnicking is a cherished summer activity in Paris. Remember, it is grey and drizzly much of the year, so when summer rolls around Parisians want to be outdoors. To really feel like a local in Paris, enjoy an hours-long picnic en plein air complete with rosé.

In the spirit of embracing my adopted home, and in a tribute to the French for their glorious contribution to the world, I threw a summer pique-nique party for 12 of my friends. I wanted this soirée to feel elevated, so I added some special touches, but a proper Paris picnic can be as simple as some boulangerie sandwiches or as elaborate as you like.

WHERE TO PICNIC

Hands down my favorite place to picnic like a local is Place des Vosges in the 4th arrondissement. Yes, it is a popular tourist destination, but few tourists actually stay and hang out. They walk through, get their pictures and move on. By doing so they are missing out on the greatest pleasure of this immaculately-manicured square! No matter where you sit, you have beautiful view (and background for photos), the sound of the fountains and an authentic Parisian atmosphere. There are also tons of great food options right around Place des Vosges, which makes putting your picnic together simple.

If for any reason you want a different local-centric picnic location, I can also recommend Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissement, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the 19th or the Voie Georges Pompidou along the Seine in the 1st and 4th (called Les Quais by the locals). Les Quais doesn’t have nearly the same grass space as the others, so I recommend that location more for a smaller gathering or a casual one.

Food and drink

Depending on how much time and money you have to spend on preparing your picnic, I propose three different options near Place des Vosges for putting your basket together. Also, when hosting a larger group ask people to bring wine or something small to share with the group. That helps with your costs, but also keeps fresh treats coming as new guests arrive.

The Fancy Picnic: Specialty Catering

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I really dislike cooking, and I’m not the best at it either. So to make my picnic special, I went to the professionals. Café Méricourt, a favorite local restaurant, has started a specialty picnic catering arm called Cuisine Méricourt. For me, they created a beautiful planche of cheese, meats, spreads, dried fruit and more, supplemented by a tabouli salad, labne and beets salad, juices, and mixed fruits and cookies for dessert. Priced between 10-15€ a head, they can work with you to create your dream picnic spread, including many vegetarian options. The food was a hit and saved me the time and effort of putting it all together myself.

Create-Your-Own French Planche

If you’d rather go the do-it-yourself route, there are excellent specialty stores within minutes of Place des Vosges. Grab a shopping bag and make your own mix at these locations along Rue Saint Antoine:

• Cheese: Fromagerie Laurent Dubois Bastille. One of the best fromagerie in Paris, I love the fresh goat cheese with yuzu or cherries. | 97-99 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004
• Baguette: Tradition from Miss Manon | 87 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 or the delicious baguette craquant (extra crispy on the outside) from Boulangerie St. Antoine. | 29 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004
• Meat and sides: Au Sanglier sells charcuterie, pâté, quiche, as well as sides and chips. I recommend the jambon de Paris. | 49 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004
• Fruit and veggies: Primeur du Marais | 61 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 or Vergers Saint Paul | 97 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004
• Wine: Julien de Savignac. Be sure to ask which wines they have cold (frais) and if you don’t have a bottle opener they can open it for you in advance. | 73 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004

Grab and Go

If you’re pressed for time, or perhaps your picnic is just a handful of people, go for an easy picnic option and pop into Maison Plisson. This lovely high-end grocer stocks pre-made salads, pastas and dips, as well as baguettes, meats and produce. An eight minute walk from Place des Vosges. | 93 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003.

And for a dessert that always pleases, Popolini‘s choux à la crème (cream puffs) are as mignon as they are tasty. | 35 Rue de Turenne, 75003

As far as wine goes, rosé is the classic French pique-nique choice, but there is no hard and fast rule. Go with what you and your guests like best. I can confirm that champagne, especially during dessert, definitely spells festive.

Decor + French Touches

A blanket is the bare minimum, but there are some simple and cheap ways to make your Paris picnic pop.

One problem I always find at picnics is that when everything has to be put on the ground, it starts to get messy fast. An easy and free fix for this: fruit palettes! In Paris, the fruit and vegetables sold at the markets get delivered in these light, wooden crates and many shops get hundreds delivered each week. I asked my neighborhood shop for a few, used them to transport my supplies to the park, and then turned them into display boxes or flipped them upside down to use as tables. I put kitchen towels (torchons) on top of some of them to protect against splinters.

My picnic begin in the early evening, and I wanted a nice lighting option for once the sun set. I initially thought candles, but open flame plus blankets sounded like a dangerous combination. So I dug out my battery-powered Christmas lights from the holiday decorations and brought them along to unspool as the sunlight dimmed.

Tying off a big balloon is a picnic trick I picked up in New York, where it can be hard to find your party in the big open spaces of Central Park. But when a giant toucan is floating above you, friends have no problem spotting the party. I picked mine up at Vivafiesta, a party store just two minutes from Place des Vosges. | 38 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75011

Finally, a couple nearby places to pick up picnic supplies: Monoprix, the “French Target” where I bought my blankets, plates, cutlery and more. They are all over the city, but the closest to Place des Vosges is at 71 Rue Saint-Antoine, 75004.

HEMA is a sort of home goods store, but also carries lots of party supplies. | 1 Rue de Rivoli, 75004

What are your picnic in Paris tips? Leave a comment and share!

The Classic Three

The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre museum and the Champs-Élysées. Here’s how to hit the three most well-known monuments all in one day.

Start your day with a coffee and lemon cake from my favorite coffee spot in Paris, Café Kitsune Palais Royal. Enjoy while sitting in the famous green park chairs at the fountain. | 51 Galerie de Montpensier, 75001. Open 10am–6pm weekdays, 10:30am–6:30pm on weekends.

Walk south through the Palais Royal, passing the famous black and white columns, Colonnes de Buren, and crossing Rue de Rivoli to get to the Louvre Museum. Spend a few hours touring the highlights. | The Louvre opens at 9am and closes at 6pm on Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Thursday. It stays open late on Wednesday and Friday until 9:45pm. Closed Tuesdays.

Finding good food near the super-touristy spots can be tricky. But here are three great French lunch restaurant options ten minutes by walking from the Louvre:

• Ellsworth | 34 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris
• Juveniles | 47 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris
• Restaurant CINQ-MARS | 51 Rue de Verneuil, 75007

After lunch, walk through the Tuileries Gardens (stop and take a ride on the ferris wheel for a great view if you have time) to the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Spend a couple of hours window shopping. The new Galeries Lafayette on the avenue carries many small and trendy French brands, and even if you aren’t a beauty lover, the Guerlain location here is very lovely to browse. Stop and buy a few macarons at the Pierre Herme inside the Publicis Drugstore (actually more of a department store) or have a drink at the cafe there for a nice view of the Arc de Triomphe and a petit pause.

Eiffel Tower time! From the Arc de Triomphe it is a 25-minute walk to Place du Trocadéro which offers an amazing view of the Eiffel Tower. You can also catch the 6 metro at Charles de Gaulle – Etoile and ride ten minutes to the Trocadéro stop. Take photos on the stairs leading down to the Champ de Mars (the field in front of the Eiffel Tower). I wouldn’t spend the time to go up inside the Eiffel Tower, but if you do, know it will probably add a couple of hours to your itinerary at least.

Take a stroll down the charming Rue Cler, and then have dinner at La Fontaine de Mars, where the Obamas ate when they visited Paris a few years ago | 129 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007. If you can’t get a table there, try L’Antre Amis | 9 Rue Bouchut, 75015.

Don’t go back to your hotel with out seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkle at the top of the hour after sundown.

Paris like a Local

Perhaps you’ve been to Paris several times before, or maybe you just prefer to get away from the tourists and experience Paris as the Parisians do. Here’s your plan — focused on the 10th and 11th arrondissements, which don’t have many tourist spots but are full of local gems.

No question, you have to start your day with coffee and a poached pear granola at Dreamin Man, the best new coffee spot in Paris. The Japanese pudding is to die for as well. | 140 Rue Amelot, 75011

Tour one of Paris’s under-the-radar neighborhoods, Belleville to see the street art (particularly on Rue Denoyez and Rue Oberkampf) and tour the realistic Paris not typically advertised to tourists. Tuesday and Friday the Belleville Market is up and running too. Another option is to walk north along the Canal Saint Martin and watch the boats navigate through the locks and people-watch the Parisians lined up along the water.

Have lunch at the new location of casual French-Israeli favorite Miznon — Miznon Canal | 37 Quai de Valmy, 75010 or walk further north and sit on the terrace of the local-favorite cafe, La Fontaine de Belleville | 31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 75010.

Walk east to what I think of as the Central Park of Paris, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and see if you can find the waterfall. Stop and have a drink at one of the cool watering holes inside the park, Rosa Bonheur or Pavillon Puebla (my favorite).

A concert at one of Paris’s smaller venues is a great way to feel like you live here. And often artists who sell out instantly in NYC haven’t gotten as popular here yet and you can see them last minute. Check out who’s on the marque at these spots:

• Bataclan | 50 Boulevard Voltaire, 75011
• Alhambra Théâtre | 21 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010
• L’OLYMPIA | 28 Boulevard des Capucines, 75009

Have dinner surrounded by locals instead of tourists at one of these gems:

• Martin. Great food, great vibes. It does get crowded, so best to arrive around 7pm unless you’re cool to wait a bit. Say hi to Saucisse, the owner’s wire hair schnauzer. | 24 Boulevard du Temple, 75011
• Les Arlots. One of the best bistros I’ve been to in the city. Small, only about ten tables, so reserve in advance. | 136 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010
• Le Saint Sébastien. One of the best new restaurants in Paris at a reasonable price point. | 42 Rue Saint-Sébastien, 75011

If you don’t want go to sleep yet, dance late into the night at Jangal Paris | 5 Avenue de l’Opéra, 75001 (Thursday-Saturday only) or Le Bus Palladium | 6 Rue Pierre Fontaine, 75009.

Paris like a Chef

The French capital is a foodie’s dream. Spend your day improving your culinary skills and enjoying some of Paris’s finest cuisine.

Spend your morning taking a French cooking class (in English) at La Cuisine Paris. Learn how to make croissants, classic French sauces, or book a market tour that includes cooking with local ingredients. | 80 Quai de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004

If you have the same experience I did at this school, you’ll leave your cooking class pretty full, so head straight to the Les Halles neighborhood where the best kitchen supplies stores are to stock up on French cookware. Give yourself plenty of time to browse these packed shops. La Cuisine Paris gives you a discount at some locations and it’s a 20 minute walk from the school to these stores.

• La Bovida | 36 Rue Montmartre, 75001
• A.Simon | 48 Rue Montmartre, 75002
• G. Detou | 58 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002 (For ingredients not cookware. This is where my sister gets her fond de veau for sauces and bâtons de chocolat for desserts and pastries.)
• E.DEHILLERIN | 18-20 Rue Coquillière, 75001

If you didn’t visit a French Market as part of your morning class (or even if you did), visit Paris’s oldest one, Marché Des Enfants Rouges | 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 (closed Mondays). It’s a 15-20 minute walk from Les Halles.

Cross the street and buy a few inventive, seasonal macarons at Pierre Herme. | 4 Rue de Bretagne, 75003

To end your day, treat yourself to an unforgettable dinner at one of these addresses (make reservations!):

• Racines | 8 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
• Verjus | 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 (not open on weekends)
• Le Servan | 32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011

Paris like a Shopaholic

Shop ’til you drop… or run out of euros.

Fuel up for your shopping with coffee and breakfast at one of the best cafes on the left bank, Coutume Cafe (open 8:30am weekdays, 9am weekends) | 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007

Walk five minutes east to Le Bon Marché, in my opinion the best department store in Paris and the most local-focused when it comes to clientele. Watch for the rotating seasonal displays, the gorgeous escalator design and the pop-up shops within the store featuring local designers. If it’s Christmastime, Le Bon Marché has my favorite ornament shop as well. | 24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007.

Forget the Champs-Élysées — worship at the true alter of French luxury by touring Rue Saint-Honoré lined with chic shops, hotels and restaurants. Don’t miss the beautiful Place Vendôme, just north of Rue Saint-Honoré near the Tuilleries Gardens.

Depending on how fancy you feel (and how much you’ve spent so far), enjoy lunch or afternoon teatime at The Ritz Paris located on Place Vendôme. Another wonderful option is Balagan | 9 Rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris or for a lower-priced and casual hidden gem pop into Les Rubis | 10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001.

Head east to le Marais and one of the best stores in the city, Merci. It makes every shopping list for a reason. Browse trendy French home goods, gifts and kitchen supplies. | 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003. Open 10am-7:30pm, closed Sunday.

Most shops in le Marais close around 7:00 or 7:30pm, so depending how much time you have, check out these other local favorites nearby:

• Gang of Earlybirds | 4 Rue de Normandie, 75003
• The Frankie Shop | 14 Rue Saint-Claude, 75003
• Officine Générale | 4 Rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003 (menswear especially)

Finally, relax and assess the day’s damage during dinner at the chic Les Chouettes | 32 Rue de Picardie, 75003 or the more casual but delicious Le Petit Marché | 9 Rue de Béarn, 75003.

My Perfect Day

When I have friends in town, this is how I show them my Paris. Or any day I have the chance to treat myself to my favorites. It includes a lot of walking, a little culture, a little shopping, and of course delicious food and wine.

My dream day begins with my favorite coffee from Café Kitsune Palais Royal and a stroll around the beautiful Palais Royal. | 51 Galerie de Montpensier, 75001. Open 10am–6pm weekdays, 10:30am–6:30pm on weekends.

Then I hit the new exhibit at Musee D’Orsay or go visit Monet’s water lillies at Musée de l’Orangerie in the Jardin Tuileries.

Next it’s a walk along the north side of the Seine on Les Quais — the riverside road that used to be a highway but is now a park (merci mayor Anne Hidalgo!). Lunch along the water at either Maison Maison | Face au, 16 Quai du Louvre, 75001 or Les Maquereaux | Quai de l’Hôtel de ville.

Treating myself to a little shopping in le Marais, I pop into my favorite shops in the 3rd and 4th arrondisments: Manoush, Sessùn, Ysé Lingerie, and the Claudie Pierlot Sévigné Outlet for clothes, Maison Brémond 1830 for French treats, diptyque for candles and Boutique Marius Fabre for soap.

Pop into Galerie Perrotin to see the always well-curated and produced current exhibitions. The courtyard alone is worth the visit. | 76 Rue de Turenne, 75003.

Finally, dinner and red wine at one of my go-to favorite restaurants: Chez Janou | 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 or Café des Musées | 49 Rue de Turenne, 75003.

What included in your perfect Paris day? Leave a comment and share your favorite spots, and don’t forget to check out my Paris Guide for even more of my recommendations.

Sitting elbow to elbow with locals is a unique experience, but doesn’t have to cost you an arm and a leg. That’s why I’m not regularly hanging out at famed cafes such as Café de Flore where a cup of coffee costs 6€. Also, it’s on every tourist list, so you don’t need me to tell you about it.

Here’s what I appreciate in a terrace:

• Beauty of the café and the view
• People watching must be on-point
• Quality menu without being crazy expensive
• Location

These are the six café terraces I’ll be soaking up the sun (and spritzes) on this season.

Le Sancerre – Haut Marais

This café recently re-opened after a renovation and feels très fresh for spring. Le Sancerre is just down the street from Café Charlot, so it has all the same great people watching, but is much less sceney. Situated across from a lovely park and bonus: it has a happy hour everyday from 5-9pm!

Adresse | 87 Rue des Archives, 75003 Paris

Maison Maison – Banks of the Seine

While not a traditional (or permanent) outdoor terrace, when the weather warms up Maison Maison brings the same experience to the banks of the Seine River. With a view of both of the water and the Eiffel Tower, this is the ideal spot for an apéro to melt into a summer sunset and become a riverside dinner.

Adresse | 16 Quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris (close to Pont Neuf)

Lou Lou – Saint-Germain

The people watching along the Boulevard Saint-Germain is excellent — I fondly remember one afternoon spent at Lou Lou during fashion week where the sidewalk became my own runway show. Order a planche of cheese and salami and a bottle of rose and wile away the afternoon.

Adresse | 90 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris

Chez Prune – Canal Saint-Martin

Chez Prune is one of the neighborhood’s Bobo (French hipster) hot spots, and is just across the street from the Canal Saint-Martin. This may not be the cliché Paris, but it’s where locals go to enjoy cheap drinks or delicious Sunday brunch in the sun.

Adresse | 36 Rue Beaurepaire, 75010 Paris

Café SAINT-RÉGIS – Île Saint-Louis

Perhaps the most touristy café on this list, but the location and beauty of Le Saint-Régis makes up for it. At the foot of the Pont Saint-Louis bridge with a view of the Seine and the Notre-Dame Cathedral, this café especially shines during the golden hour.

Adresse | 6 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 Paris

La Fontaine de Belleville – 10th Arrondissment

A neighborhood favorite, La Fontaine de Belleville has the feel of a 1920s Paris café, but with modern touches like local beers and an artisanal menu. Especially fun and lively during Saturday jazz night — which starts each week at 4:30pm.

Adresse | 31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 75010 Paris

Have a great café recommendation for me? Please leave a comment and share why you love it!

And speaking of café, thanks to those of your who have bought me a coffee to help keep this blog running! If you’d like to say thanks, here’s the link to my Ko-Fi page.

Each year, French chocolatiers and confiseurs create even more high-end, creative and beautiful calendrier de l’Avent, elevating them to a must-have for cozy holiday decor. And now the offerings have extended beyond chocolate to include tea, beauty and high-end treats.

My criteria when determining my top advent calendars of this year are:

• 1. It has to be FRENCH. Sorry Belgium, your chocolate is great, but I’m only looking for truly French products.
• 2. Quality of goodies. Each surprise behind the numbered doors needs to rise above an everyday treat.
• 3. Cuteness Factor. If I’m going to display this in my home for a month, I want it to be beautiful.

Introducing my top French advent calendars of the 2018 holidays.

Maison Le Roux

I would display this beauty in my home all year round, and Henri Le Roux chocolates and caramels are among the best in France. This is my favorite advent calendar of the year, and I can’t wait to open each delicious window. I’ve seen it in person at the shop and it is a perfect size. 38€

Available November 17th in store and online.

Mazet Confiseur

Mazet Confiseur teamed up with Japanese illustrator Yumi Katagishi for this whimsical calendar. It is filled with a variety of chocolates, dried fruit and nuts, and pâte de fruits. 22,40€

Available now in store and online.

Diptyque Paris

This luxury beauty calendar is no-doubt a splurge, but it is gorgeous. Includes 15 mini candles, 7 personal fragrances & 2 body care products and one full-sized holiday candle. 350€

Available now in store or online.

Pierre Hermé

My favorite macaron shop has created this chic take on a holiday wreath for its third edition. It appears to be in high demand. Already sold out online, there is limited availability in store also. 62€

Available now in store, more details online.

Palais des thés

If you’re not a fan of chocolate but still want a cozy treat each day, this celestial-themed tea advent calendar from Palais des thés is a perfect choice. 24€

Available now in store and online.

Pâtisserie des Rêves

A very girly, but lovely design that would look great in any Paris apartment. Pâtisserie des Rêves also carries gorgeous yule log desserts for Christmas dinner parties. 46€

Available now in store and online.

Angelina

Creating beautiful chocolates in Paris since 1903, Angelina’s 2018 calendar takes you inside its salon de thé on Rue de Rivoli. 29,90€

Available now in store and online.

La Maison Plisson

A more modern, even hipster advent calendar. La Maison Plisson teamed up with French artist Jean Jullien for its limited edition calendar. 29€

Available now in store and online.

Maison Brémond 1830

Not the most beautiful design on my list, but this calendar made the cut because of the quality of these products. Maison Brémond 1830 produces some of the best olive oils, spreads and sauces in France and you are sure to have a December full of deliciousness. 39,90€

Available in store and online.

À la Mère de Famille

How adorable is this? Founded in 1761, À la Mère de Famille is a classic chocolatier and this year the maison tapped the artist Octave Marsal for this unique advent calendar. 39€

Available in store and online.

Oh My Cream!

The calendar may be simple in design, but Oh My Cream! carries top products and is a favorite of Parisiennes in the know. Includes small sizes of house products as well as brands such as Tata Harper and Ren Skincare. 130€

Currently sold out online but may be still in store.

What advent calendar are you buying for your home this year? Leave a comment and share your favorite with me!

2. For the decoration lover: Le Bon Marché Christmas Ornament Salon

3. For your Paris-obsessed niece: In Paris / à Paris

9. For the college student: The quintessential striped shirt from Saint James

It may be a cliche, but French people of all ages really do wear striped shirts all the time. And the most authentic comes from Saint James, an iconic brand originating in the Normandy region that created the striped French Navy uniform. Go for a classic Breton Marinière in cotton jersey for men or women.

Where to buy: Saint James stores around Paris (and across the world) or www.saint-james.com.

10. For the wife or girlfriend: French lingerie from Ysé

This affordable, yet elegant lingerie brand is still under the radar outside Paris, so she’ll be sure to be surprised (and impressed) by your choice. Specializes in styles for smaller cup sizes, and also makes cute swimsuits. You can get a chic bra and panty set for under 100€.

Where to buy: Two shops in Paris, 117 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 + 2 Rue Guichard, 75016 Paris, as well as at the department stores Galeries Lafayette + Printemps. Or online at yse-paris.com.

11. For your mom: Real Savon de Marseille

A beautiful and inexpensive gift, Savon de Marseille is a traditional hard French soap originating around the city of Marseille and made from vegetable oils. Some brands use animal additives, so it is important to buy from good shops to make sure you’re getting the real deal. My favorite: Savonnerie Marius Fabre which has been making this soap in caldrons for four generations.

Where to buy: Savonnerie Marius Fabre, 26 Rue de Turenne 75003 Paris or online at www.marius-fabre.com.

12. For your brother: French knifes

Pick up a pocket or chef’s knife from a great French brand such as Forge de Laguiole, Opinel or Laguiole Fontenille Pataud. Paris has some excellent small knife shops that make the experience special as well. I recommend Cutlery Marais on Place Des Vosges or Laguiole Cutlery and Coutelleries dans l’Ile on Ile Saint Louis.

Where to buy: Cutlery Marais, 6 Rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003 Paris. Laguiole Cutlery, 35 Rue des Deux Ponts, 75004 Paris. Coutellerie dans l’Ile, 1 Rue des Deux Ponts, 75004 Paris.

13. For the cook: Fond Brun de Veau

Fond Brun de Veau is French condensed veal stock. It may sound like a strange gift, but this stock is the secret used by professionals and home cooks alike in France for creating delectable savory sauces and gravy. It is harder and more expensive to find outside of France.

Where to buy: G. Detou, 58 Rue Tiquetonne, 75001 Paris.
Note: The Les Halles neighborhood this shop is in also has many fine restaurant supply shops where you can pick up cookware at great prices.

14. For the little ones: French chocolate advent calendar

I say this is for children, but I always buy one for adult family members and my home as well. Many nice chocolate shops in Paris produce advent calendars. The ones from Maison de la Prasline Mazet in le Marais contain a variety of sweet treats inside the doors. I’ve also seen versions with beauty items, tea and other products instead of chocolate around town. Here are my favorite of 2018.

Where to buy: Maison de la Prasline Mazet 37 Rue des Archives, 75004 Paris or www.mazetconfiseur.com.

15. For the fashion hound: Maison Kitsuné tricolor fox patch tee

This Maison Kitsuné tee may be a splurge, but think of it as the cooler, French cousin to the Ralph Lauren pony. The French music label and fashion house also has a lovely cafe at the Palais Royal.

Where to buy: Multiple locations in Paris, across Asia and in NYC. Or online at maisonkitsune.com

Do you have a favorite French gift to give or receive? Leave a comment and share!

“What better way to see Provence?” she campaigned. “We won’t be crazy. We’ll figure out a flat, easy route and stop a lot along the way.” I remained skeptical.

It was the discovery of a 2009 New York Times article in which a man and his girlfriend biked alone in Provence that changed my mind. Sure, they used a tour company that picked up their luggage and provided maps and support. But if they could do it just the two of them, surely we could figure this out on our own? Okay, let’s do it. It will be an adventure!

Using their trip as a starting point, my sister and I researched flat paths, booked hotels, reserved our bikes, printed maps and headed down to Avignon as a starting point. We embarked with everything for three days in our backpacks and my intermediate French designating me the de facto leader.

Fast forward three days. Dirty and giddy at the Avignon train station, we can’t say the trip was exactly seamless — but it sure was an adventure. Okay, we had to be rescued at the end (more about that later), but we discovered places we never would have sans vélo and there was definitely some sister bonding.

In case you’re interested in doing a similar trip, I’m sharing our successes and failures so you can build off our experience.

DAY ONE: Avignon to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

After some sightseeing and a spectacularly cozy lunch at Le Coude à Coude, we were off to pick up our bikes. Provence Bike is conveniently located near the Avignon center train station, and on the southern edge of the city, which is the direction we were headed. Our bikes were just 35€ each for the three days.

The owner seemed skeptical of these two American girls who didn’t seem to know the first thing about the bikes and refused saddle bags to hold their backpacks — our first mistake of the trip. But with a (sarcastic?) “bonne chance!” he sent us off onto our adventure.

Getting out of Avignon sucks. You have to bike down busy roads and over a bridge with the famously-strong Provence winds whipping you. But once you hit the smaller road and bike route, it was some of the prettiest scenery of the whole trip. Take route D34A and follow the green signs with the cyclist on it. Including stopping for photos and ten minutes of going the wrong way, it took us about two hours to get down to our hotel outside Saint-Rémy.

We stayed at Le Mas des Figues. (A “mas” is a provincial farmhouse — you’ll see the word everywhere in the region.) I would reccommend — the place is charming and the gardens are full of the owner’s artwork and the breakfast is glorious. However it is a 20 minute bike ride outside of town, so do keep that in mind.

DAY TWO: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence to Fontvieille to Arles

Waking up on day two, we became aware of our biggest error of our adventure: not dressing properly. In my head, 2-3 hours of biking a day was a cinch and I could do it in jeans. Not the best choice. We were experiencing some butt soreness, and I regretted blowing off a friend’s recommendation that I purchase some padded bike shorts. But we had no choice but to power through the discomfort and forge on.

We were lucky to be in Saint-Rémy on Wednesday morning for the Grand Marché Provençal, which was a highlight of the trip. We chained the bikes to a pole and feasted our eyes on the olives, herbs, honey and other local treats. We also purchased more than we should have considering we were carrying everything on our backs like mules.

More experienced and pain-tolerant bikers would at this point head to the lovely village of Les-Baux-de-Provence. But Les-Baux is on the top of a hill, and we were sticking to “flat as a crêpe” routes. So we instead went around the Alpilles hills, biking on the vieux chemin d’Arles. Along the way, we rolled up to Mas Carlin, a tiny independent winery run by a lovely older French lady who was very sweet to these two sweaty Americans who knocked on her door unannounced. I added a bottle of wine to my increasingly heavy backpack. (If you don’t speak French, try Domaine Dalmeran which has English-speaking staff.)

Next stop: Château d’Estoublon, famous for producing the best olive oil in France. We took route D32 to D33, then merged onto the unpaved chemin de Saint-Jean to make our way to the fancy château. We partook in olive oil and wine tastings (both free of charge) before buying even more heavy stuff to put in our backpacks (we never learn). In spite of our somewhat raggedy appearance, the staff was extremely nice to us and encouraged us to take a walk around the grounds to view the olive trees, vines and chapel.

At this point we made our way to the city of Arles, but if I had to do it again, I would have skipped this town and headed closer to the twin villages of Beaucaire and Tarascon. Arles is stressful to bike in and out of and isn’t nearly as charming as the small villages in the region.

DAY THREE: Arles to Beaucaire to Avignon

I will gloss over Arles and our less-than-enjoyable journey out of the town and take you straight to Beaucaire and Tarascon, which are little gems on either side of the Rhône river. Boasting dueling castles, these two villages offer sweeping views of the river and cobblestone streets to meander through. Tarascon is also the home of the Tarasque — a mythical turtle-esque monster that, legend has it, ate people, sunk ships and terrorized the village until being tamed by Saint Martha. There is a great statue of this guy outside the castle.

In Beaucaire we also had the best meal of our trip at L’epicerie De Cecile. While enjoying the decor and ambiance of a friend’s provincial kitchen, we ate like kings for a grand total of 33€, including wine. A must-visit.

From here we began our final, ill-fated leg of the trip. From Tarascon to Avignon take routes D183 and D183A to D35 which will take you just south of Avignon. Or it could take you to the village of Barbantane, which is where our journey met it’s untimely end.

Just 30 minutes out from success, my sister started lagging badly behind me. I pulled over and yelled at her to pick up the pace. She shouted back, “it’s gotten so hard for some reason!” and I knew this couldn’t be good. Low and behold, her front tire was completely flat. After a failed attempt to pump it back up and an incredibly embarrassing attempt to patch the outside of the tire, I anxiously weighed my options on the side of the road…with an hour to go before the bike shop closed:

1. Watch a YouTube video on how to fix a bicycle tire and hope I have supernatural talent to master it on the spot.
2. Hitchhike.
3. Call the bike shop and sound pathetic and hope they will rescue us.

After my sister howled in opposition to hitchhiking, and I realistically appraised the likelihood of me changing a bike tire for the first time in my life, I made the call. In my frantic French, I explained the situation and where we were, and waited for a rescue.

Luckily we were only a 20 minute drive away from the bike shop. The co-owner who picked us up gave us a light chastising for renting bikes without knowing how to change a tire, but she was sympathetic to our plight and generously dropped us at the Avignon TGV station. The bike company also didn’t charge us a rescue fee, which was very nice of them (merci Provence Bike!).

We biked nearly 100 miles in three days, only to fail just six miles from our destination. Still, we felt proud of ourselves and our ability to tackle this trip all on our own. And so, with the bikes forever behind us, we said cheers to our victories and defeats.

LEARN FROM OUR MISTAKES

• Athletic wear and padded shorts are your friend, even on short bike trips.
• Learn how to change a tire if you are planning to go it alone.
• Don’t be a hero and carry all your stuff on your back. Pony up the extra 10€ for the saddle bag.
• I would recommend getting a mount for your phone to put on the bike. We had to stop more because I needed to pull my phone out of my bag to check we were on the right path still.

WHAT WE GOT RIGHT

• We didn’t go in July or August, the months that are the most busy, expensive and hot. June and September are popular biking months — but October is still a great time to go.
• Do stay on small roads as much as possible. It may take longer, but it will be much more enjoyable and show you the quaintest parts of Provence.
• Leave yourself time to take detours, stop for pictures and enjoy the scenery. No point in doing a trip like this if you have to rush the whole time.
• WEAR SUNSCREEN. You will be in the sun a lot on these roads.
• Eat and drink like a local. Taste the local wines and enjoy the local dishes — all of which are very herbal and feel like home-style country meals. Save the fussy, fancy restaurants for another trip.

Have you biked in Provence? What was your experience like? Leave a comment and share your route!

FORMER NAMES

• Lutèce

Before present-day Paris existed, it was a Roman city called Lutetia. The French version of the word is Lutèce (pronounced: loo-tess). Julius Caesar name-checked Lutecia in his memoir, and you can still find ruins of the ancient Roman city in Paris — including the Arènes de Lutèce amphitheater in the 5th arrondissement. Nowadays you’ll see Lutèce used in the names of cafes, shops as well as the first language school I attended after moving to Paris, Lutèce Langue.

The origin of Lutetia is uncertain, but the most common belief is that the word derives from Celtic roots meaning “place near a swamp.” Now you may not think of a swamp when you imagine Paris, but the name of the neighborhood “Le Marais” also translates to “marsh” or “swamp” in French. This is because it is close to the Seine and used to flood whenever the river got too high.

• Parisii

This is the word the name Paris is derived from. The Parisii were a Celtic (Gaulish) tribe who lived in the area. Around the year 400 the city was named “Parisios,” which became “Paris” in 887.

NICKNAMES

• Paname

A slang word for Paris that has recently re-emerged as popular. Paname (pronounced: puh-nam) is a play on the country of Panama and its famous hats, which were popular with Parisians in the early 1900s. There is a 1975 song called “Amoureux de Paname” by the singer Renaud which is a bit of a love song to Paris, despite calling it full of garbage and smelly. Today you can sip a beer at Paname Brewing Company or buy a sweatshirt with the word emblazoned on it.

• The City of Light — La Ville Lumière

Originally this moniker came not from the illumination of the city, but from Paris being the birthplace of the Age of Enlightenment. Paris played a leading role in Europe’s sharing of education and ideas, being the home of countless writers, inventors and philosophers. 

But the nickname has now taken on a more literal interpretation. Paris was one of the first cities in Europe to install gas street lighting, and today 20,000 light bulbs illuminate the Eiffel Tower every night.

• The City of Love

Ooh la la! Paris’s reputation for romance birthed this nickname. The beauty of the city and its native language has made it a top spot in the world for engagements and honeymoons. All year round you can spot brides and grooms taking photos in front of Paris’s most beautiful landmarks.

• Une capitale de la mode

Paris is known as a “Fashion Capital” of the world, sharing the title with New York, London and Milan. The home of iconic design houses including Dior, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, French fashion has a huge impact on how the rest of the world dresses.

MORE PARIS-RELATED SLANG

• Parigot

A slang term for a Parisian person, the word Parigot (pronunciation: pear-ee-go) is particularly used by French people who don’t live in Paris to insinuate someone is a bit of a snob. Like in many countries, people who live in the biggest city of France are considered a bit pretentious. The opposite would be to call someone provincial, which means someone is a country bumpkin.

• la dame de fer

The Eiffel Tower shares her nickname, The Iron Lady, with former British prime minister Margaret Thatcher. But to the French, La Dame de Fer is a reference to the wrought iron lattice that makes up the Eiffel Tower.

Have you heard any other common nicknames for Paris or its famous sights? Leave a comment and share!

 The Cafés and Restaurants

I love how cafés don’t rush you out in Paris the way you often are in America. You can order a coffee and read until your little heart is content.

The Libraries and Bookshops

• The American Library of Paris: This non-profit cultural association is the largest English-language lending library on the European mainland. Gertude Stein and Ernest Hemingway wrote for its literary journal, and Henry Miller, Anaïs Nin and James Baldwin worked from there. Best for residents or students who want access to a large number of books in English, the events and the community because day and week passes do not include borrowing privileges. | 10 Rue du Général Camou, 75007 Paris
• Shakespeare and Company: No book lover’s trip to Paris is complete without a stop at this famed English bookshop. The shop itself is too cramped to accommodate readers, but the bookstore café next door has tables inside and out where you can read with a view of Notre Dame cathedral. The shop also hosts author events with writers across genres and nationalities. | 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris
• La Mouette Rieuse: Book and giftshop with an upstairs cafe/reading area and large glass wall that overlooks a garden. | 17bis Rue Pavée, 75004 Paris
• If you live in Paris, there are some beautiful French public libraries that require you to get a card. A beautiful and quiet one that I adore: The Hotel de Ville library.

The Summer Spot

• Paris Plage: In July and August you can watch the world float by along the Seine in a beach lounger. Paris Plage is a summer hangout set up for Parisians who can’t escape to the beach. Lending libraries are also set up along the way so sunbathers can escape with their minds too.

Other book-themed places of note

• Hotel Le Pavillon des Lettres: A hotel celebrating French and international literature. The rooms are themed around specific writers, from Zola to Rousseau to Woolf, with their writings displayed on the walls and books on the shelves. Most interestingly, guests can fill out a questionnaire on their literary tastes and a book concierge will deliver a hand-picked novel to your room in the evening. | 12 Rue des Saussaies, 75008 Paris
• The Bouquinistes of Paris: Along the banks of the Seine, these riverside book stalls carry mostly used and rare gems. They run from the Quai de la Tournelle to Quai Voltaire.

Where is your favorite place to read or pick up books in Paris? Leave a comment to share it with me!